Showing posts with label sallets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sallets. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Does The World Go Round?

I finally got around to making the Inside-out Pie, thus completing my delayed attempt at celebrating a Renaissancey version of Pie Day. But since a pie isn't technically a meal, I needed something to go with it. I thought that the protein-to-vegetable ratios of Grilled Tuna with Carrots and Sweet Onions would make it a passable dinner (it's in the Sallets chapter), so off I went.

The first step was making a simple vinaigrette, which was simple. I wish I had a better camera, because things floating in oil/oil floating in things is always a great image.


I was supposed to whisk the balsamic (my substitution for sherry vinegar) and the olive oil together, but discovered many and many a year ago that it was much faster to put them in Tupperware and shake.


Here is my fish! For the first time, I got it at Safeway instead of Whole Foods. I thought I should at least give them a shot. More importantly, they had exactly the correct amount of tuna hanging around. No more, no less. Although I'm a little concerned about the fact that they apparently caught it in Colorado.


Here are my tuna steaks. Perfectly good color for previously frozen tuna, and perfectly non-fishy smelling. If I had any problem with them, it was picking them up and realizing they may have stayed slightly frozen on the surfaces that were placed directly on ice at the counter. But nothing that seconds on heat wouldn't cure.


Here's where the presentation in the cookbook becomes an issue. Look at what we're apparently aiming for:


So we've got slices of tuna, cooked at the edge, and then the onion and carrots being all decorative. Now, the instructions for the recipe tell you take a pound of tuna, cut it into slices, and then grill them. Seeing the disconnect? Slices of tuna don't cook around the edge when you place them on a grill. Clearly there are shenanigans involved here. You get to the picture by grilling then cutting. I decided all by my lonesome that I would aim for picture true rather than following the recipe. Not sure if this was a good idea or not, in the end. That meant marinating the tuna in whole pieces as opposed to slices. Into the fridge for an hour, which lets me work on the rest of the ingredients.


Not that there are a lot of ingredients. There's half an onion, thinly sliced.


Which leaves me with half an onion. I was playing around with my shiny new apple corer earlier, and practicing on apples. And I thought, "What does it do to an onion?"


This is the answer. It's... not all that impressive, really. You mostly get the same effect by applying a knife. Except for the little circular bit in the middle.


It's entirely possible that someone will need these little onion circles one day, so take note.


You may have noticed a theme so far, with way too many macro photos. So I tried to keep it up. Here's the carrots after skinning them. I could have kept at it to make carrot ribbons, but I had a faster method.


Caliban has blades, but also teeth.


And then there are lots of carrot bits, huzzah!


The carrots and onions sit around, and then it's time to cook the fish. It's supposed to get grilled, but I only had a skillet. Close enough. One side.


And the next.


That wasn't going to help with the sides, however, so I used a super-fancy technique I learned to deal with steaks.


And then repeat everything for the second piece of fish.


The recipe says to arrange the carrots and onions (soaked in the rest of the vinaigrette) in the shape of an oak leaf on a platter, with the tuna slices on top. But I didn't have a platter big enough to really do that, so the hell with it.


And there were bits of tuna on the second piece that were done to perfection (see picture below). Most was rarer.


Verdict: I'll confess, I like my meat bloody. The rare end of medium rare. I want my burgers dripping on the plate, and I tend to look the other way if that means they're literally raw in the very center. I had a bistecca in Italy that was basically blackened on the outside and raw meat in the middle and my biggest issue was that it was way too difficult to chew through the muscle. When I walk through the meat section in the supermarket, I look at the really red stuff and wonder what it would be like to just eat it. And sushi, of course, is a great goodness. That picture of the tuna up above? Any more and it would be overdone.

And yet, I couldn't eat the tuna. I tried, I really did. But for the first time in my life I thought "There is raw meat in my mouth, and I really can't deal with that." Maybe it was the quality of the fish. Maybe it was because I don't trust my cooking yet. Which is silly because I got what exactly what I wanted, but I'll happily eat undercooked meat when it's given to me by a stranger even if they didn't mean to do it.

I threw out all the food, and moved on to dessert.

The Inside-out Pie starts with a lot of bread. Look, I've got bread! Nine breads.


And just like any petulance powered project involving bread, the crusts need to come off.


Some lightly beaten eggs, camouflaged in their natural habitat.


The recipe calls for chopped pitted dates, and I thought I'd skip over the pesky chopping step by buying chopped dates. They're very much hard and candied, though, which will probably give a different texture to the end product.


And then here's the problem with freshly grating nutmeg. I mean, how do you measure this stuff?


The weird ingredient! A quarter cup of prosciutto, minced. I just rolled the slices up over themselves and started, well, slicing.


It worked out pretty well, and there were leftover pieces to save eat.


Everything in the bowl.


Oh yeah, and then there's cream. Forgot to mention that.


And this is what it looks like stirred together.


But what about that bread? Cubing it would have been easier with a bread knife, or at least I think it would have resulted in some less squished cubes.


Bread cubes go into the wet mixture and, I can't really pretty this up, it looks like vomit.


The vomit has to settle for a while, which means it's time to get the apples involved. If you're any good at Where's Waldo? you noticed some butter hanging out in the springform pan. It was nice and melty at this point, and I used it to grease the pan. Next come thin apple slices, shingled in a spiral. I didn't really know what that meant, so I guessed. The recipe calls for a single apple, but look what that got me.


Luckily, I was clever and bought a whole bag of apples. Couldn't get them to go up the sides very well, though.


And here is the mixture dumped into the apples, ready for baking.


...yeah, still looks like vomit.


This is what it looks like in the end. It's supposed to be golden brown, but the parts that were golden brown now were going to be black by the time that the rest was correct. Anyway, this isn't the side that people see.  The whole thing gets inverted.


The springy, formy bit comes off.


And then I use an exciting technical maneuver to flip the whole thing over.


Ta-da! Oh, no, hold-on.


Ta... da?


It's not exactly as impressive as I thought it would be. There's a dusting of powdered sugar that goes on top. Apparently you can broil the whole thing to caramelize the sugar, but I didn't bother. Mostly because I didn't want to deal with transferring it to yet another plate.


And this is what a slice of it looks like.


Verdict: It's decent. It's secretly a bread pudding. It's a pretty good breakfast since there isn't really any sugar added. But it's not the best bread pudding I've had, or the best apple/dessert/breakfast thingy (so far that might be this, or some apple cakes I don't have convenient links to). I'd say something like "next time I'll be more careful about where I pour the batter because you can see the heavy stuff settled in the middle," but not sure there will be a next time on this one.

But more importantly, how is this inside out? What is inside-out about it? Ok, normally you have a thin layer of crust on the bottom, then lots of filling, and maybe a thin layer of crust on top. But this ends with a layer of crust on the bottom, and then filling on top with maybe a little bit of the crust stuff. That is not an inside-out pie! That is regular pie! Regular pie with horrible ratios! Bizarro Pie, possibly, but certainly not inside-out. I want my inside-out money back. It's exactly like regular money, except it's exactly the same.


The last episode of S2 Doctor Who was a poor choice before bed. I am inside-out sad.

Monday, January 30, 2012

And much fool may you find in you

In case you missed me flipping out about it via FB and Twitter, on Tuesday Playing The Cook was featured briefly on the 92nd St Y's blog. What's really crazy about this is that they found out about my project from Francine Segan. For those of you playing at home, that's the actual author of the cookbook I'm using. My mind, she is blown.

***

Thursday was going to be dessert day. I went a little overboard on purchasing ingredients, and somehow convinced myself that I was going to have time to make three different recipes and still have time to get my reading done for class on Friday. This was incorrect. I did, however, find the time to make Sallet of Lemmons and Foolproof Gooseberry "Foole".

We begin with the lemons. The Sallet of Lemmons is included in the Sallet chapter, but its role as a food item is a bit nebulous. We're talking combination aperitif, digestif, fish accompaniment... Most importantly, it was very easy to make, and that made it a good candidate for a multi-recipe night.


The recipe itself suggests using a sharp knife to peel the lemons, but that is the sort of manual task at which I am likely to fail and/or sever fingers. I had also just purchased a vegetable peeler, so was leaning in that direction. I decided to put the two methods to the test.


Vae victis! The offending paring knife was sold into gladiatorial slavery shortly after this picture was taken. The peeler was much better at providing me with something resembling uniform strips of lemon peel.


The peel is julienned, and then I rediscover my camera's macro setting.


This is followed by triple-blanching the strips of lemon peel.  Boil, drain, rinse; boil, drain, rinse; boil, drain, rinse.


The lemon peels join the now-sliced lemons in a container...


...so that they can be tossed with sugar.


The mixture sits for at least an hour, during which time I realized that despite purchasing the ingredients for three different dishes, I hadn't actually picked up anything for dinner. A frozen chicken pot pie (not pictured) goes into the oven. At the end of the hour, I have Sallet of Lemmons (no pot pie is involved). It's hard to see the sugar on the lemons in the picture, but rest assured that it's there.


And here we have the Sallet hanging out with some crusty bread and olives, since Shakespeare's Kitchen suggests that this was the way it was commonly done back in the day.


I experiment with the dish for a bit - I eat lemon using my hands, just the fork, knife and fork, sallet on bread... Here's the problem: at the end of the day, what we have is sliced lemons with sugar. Do you have a lemon in your kitchen? Go to it. Cut it open. Try to eat it like an orange. Try again after sprinkling a little bit of sugar on it. Eat half of the lemon. Find yourself wondering, "Why? Why exactly did I do that? Why do I hate myself so much?" These are good questions to have. If you are already the sort of person to eat a lemon, with or without sugar, then this recipe is for you. There was some talk of using the lemons in lemon-drops, but there is apparently no vodka in my apartment.

On to the Foolproof Gooseberry "Foole". Gooseberries, for those of you who don't know, are not native to the Washington, DC area, nor to my local grocery stores. Gooseberry bushes also produce their fruit in June and July, which is the opposite of January. Shakespeare's Kitchen suggests that any kind of berry will work for the Fool, but I decided to get fancy and check Cook's Thesaurus to see if there were specific substitutions I should be trying to make. The entry for gooseberry suggested rhubarb, red currants, and (oddly enough) kiwis, and specified that the rhubarb and kiwi were both excellent choices for fools. I was a little annoyed to discover that everyone but me seemed to already know what a fool was, but I eventually got on with my life. I settled on kiwis, and took four of them back for foolery. Also, for more macro photography.


Here you can see three of the four kiwis skinned and ready for cooking. The last one is spared for the moment, since it will become fancy garnish.


Into the boiling water the kiwis go! They start losing color really quickly, which I wasn't expecting. Not for any particular reason, I've just never had something I cook go white from boiling. I guess I don't do enough blanching.


After they cook for a few minutes, the kiwis are drained, and mashed with a fork, and then mixed with sugar and a bit of mace nutmeg. This part was fun, because it involved mashing things. If I do this again (and I will!), I may drain a bit of the liquid that comes out of the fruit at this point. It would make things just a bit more solid. Also, there could have been more nutmeg.


Once that's taken care of, we need whipped cream. I started with the noble goal of whipping the cream myself with a fork. Then I got bored and switched to a whisk. Then my arm started to hurt and the cream wasn't moving past the thick liquid stage, so I closed the container and shook it for maybe five seconds and then my whipped cream was magically done.


Sugared kiwi mixture goes into the little dishes.


Whipped cream on top, kiwi slices for garnish, and completely forgetting to sprinkle it with turbinado or brown sugar as the recipe actually calls for. Et voilĂ !


The Foolproof Gooseberry Kiwi "Foole" was absolutely delicious (verified by roommate Kris and friend Amelia) and about as foolproof as claimed on the tin. No matter how much I want more kiwi, I'm going to try something else next time; maybe raspberries. This isn't exactly a traditional fool, which I assume accounts for the quotation marks in the recipe name. A standard fool would involve folding the fruit into the whipped cream, but I don't really care when the "foole" tastes this good. And considering how quickly the acid in the kiwi starts to eat at the cream, I wouldn't really want to mix this particular version before serving. It turned out that I over-created the whipped cream, which actually worked in my favor. By this I mean there was enough whipped cream left over that it was like dessert for dessert.


The only line in Shakespeare involving a lemon is "A lemon."